Not Culture Shock -- But Culturally Shocked

I finally got back to Seattle from Malawi just a couple of days ago, and have been catching up on things at the hospital and parish office. Besides feeling assaulted by the absolute insanity going on right now in Washington, DC, I've also been saddened to read of things that have happened in Malawi since I left, at the socio-political level. Numbers differ, but at least 19 people have been killed during the recent demonstrations.

The demonstrations protest the policies and actions of the President. Malawi is experiencing widespread gas shortages that threaten key functions of society. Vehicles of all kinds -- including large semi-trucks as well as some private cars -- were lined up for miles. But in many places, it was several days before there was any gas. Likewise, Malawi's electical delivery has been frequently, increasingly erratic. One friend of mine now in Malawi experienced five shortages in the few hours' time during our communications, the other day.

Of course, most people in Malawi do not have any electricity -- just as most people do not have any use for gasoline, since they do not have any vehicle or engine that would use it. But in the towns and cities, these disfunctions are stretching the social fabric. The government gets few points.

[Consider one area NOT part of that taut social fabric: water. Water is a very personal need. Malawi is not a desert area, like other, not-too-distant countries. It possesses not only an inevitable though not predictable rainy season, but also a marvelous, untapped water source, Lake Malawi, which runs along the east for most of the length of the country. But in most places -- again, in the rural areas, much of it in southern Malawi -- it is not the Malawian government providing water, this most basic of needs. Rather, this is being developed by many non-governmental organizations (even relatively small ones like ourselves, a "sister parish"). These NGOs are helping tap this potential, mostly through a partnership with a local community.]

OK, it is not ineptitude that has brought these ills. Basically, it's povery...coupled with governmental corruption. And the US Government, through the Millennium Challenge Corporation, has just halted a $350 million, multi-year deal to develop Malawian water/power capabilities: "The MCC is deeply concerned by recent events in Malawi and is placing an immediate hold on all program operations in order to review its partnership with Malawi, including whether to recommend to its Board of Directors whether to suspend or terminate its assistance" [REUTERS].

And sometimes there is official behaviour that seems like lneptitude, until you realize that somebody is making a lot of money from it. I referenced in an earlier blog about the current monetary policy and the shortages...how "$30,000 can become $40,000." You might think: "How could the government of Malawi be that stupid! After a while, what importer or trader would ever want to take kwatcha? Bingo, a shortage!" But then, all of a sudden you realize that SOMEBODY IS MAKING A LOT OF MONEY ON THIS POLICY.

However, beyond this one simple corruption and other much wider-ranging corruption, the manner that the President displays is also erratic, threatening, and focused on his own image -- in a manner that evokes the man he regards as a hero, former "President for Life" Hastings Banda. Ironically, he seems unaware of his worsening dictatorian turn, like his hero.

Last week, demonstrations were planned simultaneously in the 4 major cities and in many towns. Organizers told their supporters to wear red. It is said that when the government heard this, they put the word out to arrest those who were wearing red.

The tensions of those situations spilled over. Police or other security officials fired on the crowd. At least 19 are dead. You wouldn't have caught me in those demonstrations, but then I think of that folk song, "It coulda been me, but instead it was you..." I am saddened at this turn of events. I am saddened, but...

When you think of the lack of infrastructure in Malawi, with the lack of good roads, inconsistancies in electricity in those places that have it, difficulties of access to clean water across large areas of the country, shortage of medical care/access... When you think of that, you have to marvel that somehow, the people of Malawi managed to coordinate with each other for that many simultaneous demonstrations. I know that the widespread access to cell-phones has enabled communications for a wide array of people, organizations, and interests, including churches like our partner. This is a sample of the power of community, enabled through communications. This is a powerful thing, and it is impacting the culture of Malawi in unpredictable but seemingly wondrous ways.

Of course, it is NOT wondrous that 19 people are dead! So I am torn, when I think of my friends in Malawi, and pray for them (like I'm praying for my own country right now). I am thankful that in general, what goes on in the cities of Malawi does not affect the rural areas much. But that could change.

I'll write more again, soon. And thanks, Crystal, for causing me to write this!